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Updated April 2026 · Tools, steps, torque specs

DIY Engine Mount Replacement: Tools, Steps, Torque Specs & When NOT to DIY

Front mounts save $120-$280 in labour. Transmission mounts require an engine support bar. Here is everything you need to know before starting.

Difficulty by Mount Position

PositionDifficultyTimeLabour Saved
Torque strut / dog bone2/1045-90 min$80-$150
Front driver engine mount4/101-2 hr$120-$250
Front passenger engine mount4-6/101.5-2.5 hr$150-$280
Rear transmission mount7/102-3 hr$180-$350

Tools Required and Investment

ToolCost (to buy)
Floor jack (2-3 ton)$45-$85
Jack stands (pair)$30-$60
Socket set (metric + SAE)$60-$100
Torque wrench (1/2" drive)$50-$120
Engine support bar$80-$180
Penetrating oil (PB Blaster)$8-$12
Pry bar$15-$25
Wheel chocks$10-$15

Total tool investment: $100-$200 if starting from scratch. Renting the engine support bar from AutoZone or O'Reilly eliminates the biggest single cost.

10-Step Front Mount Replacement

1

Park, chock, and prepare

Level ground. Parking brake on. Chock rear wheels. Disconnect the negative battery terminal if working near electrical components.

2

Loosen top mount bolt (do not remove)

Access the through-bolt from the top of the engine bay with the hood open. Loosen 2-3 turns. Removing it at this stage will cause the engine to shift when you jack it.

3

Raise front and support on stands

Jack at designated frame points. Place jack stands before getting under the vehicle. Never work under a car supported only by a floor jack.

4

Position jack under oil pan with wood block

Place a 2x4 between the jack pad and the oil pan. This distributes the load and prevents cracking the pan. The jack is now supporting engine weight.

5

Raise engine slightly

Raise the jack until the mount just begins to unload. You are lifting the engine 1-2 cm maximum. Do not lift enough to stretch coolant hoses or tension the exhaust.

6

Remove through-bolt and bracket bolts

Remove the now-accessible hardware. Note the orientation of the mount relative to the bracket before removal. Some mounts are directional.

7

Extract the old mount

Wiggle and pull free. If seized, apply penetrating oil and wait 20 minutes. A pry bar on the bracket (not the rubber) helps.

8

Clean surfaces and inspect bracket

Clean contact surfaces with a wire brush. Inspect the bracket for cracks. A cracked bracket must be replaced; a mount on a cracked bracket will fail quickly.

9

Install new mount

Position in correct orientation. Hand-start all bolts before torquing any. This allows the mount to self-align.

10

Torque to spec and verify

Torque through-bolt first (typically 40-80 ft-lb), then bracket bolts (20-40 ft-lb). Lower vehicle. Start engine, rev to 2,500 rpm, observe engine movement. No unusual rock = success.

Torque Specs (Generic Ranges)

FastenerGeneric Range
Mount through-bolt (large centre bolt)40-80 ft-lb
Mount bracket-to-chassis bolts20-40 ft-lb
Transmission mount through-bolt50-70 ft-lb
Torque strut bracket bolts28-45 ft-lb

Always look up your specific year/make/model torque specs before starting. AllData, Mitchell, or your OEM service manual are the correct sources. Generic ranges above are for estimation only.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Avoid: Under-torquing the through-bolt: allows micro-movement that kills the new mount in 20-30k miles.
Avoid: Over-torquing bracket bolts: cracks the mount housing on some designs.
Avoid: Not marking mount orientation before removal: some mounts are directional and will not fit correctly if installed backwards.
Avoid: Mixing left and right mounts: they are different parts. Do not swap sides.
Avoid: Reusing stretch-to-yield (TTY) bolts: these are one-use fasteners. Replace with new OEM bolts.
Avoid: Forgetting to remove the air intake or battery tray on some vehicles: necessary for access on many 4-cylinder FWD cars.
Avoid: No engine support for transmission mount: the powertrain can shift suddenly, trapping hands or damaging adjacent components.

When NOT to DIY

  • Severely seized and rusted brackets (Northern states, older vehicles) that require heat or cutting tools
  • Any AWD transmission mount where the transfer case adds significant complexity
  • Hydraulic mounts on vehicles with VCM or active engine damping systems
  • If you have never done suspension or powertrain work before and are attempting a transmission mount
  • Vehicles with no room to place an engine support bar (some packaging-constrained imports)

Free Loaner Tool Programs

AutoZone, O'Reilly Auto Parts, and Advance Auto Parts offer engine support bars, engine hoist rentals, and pullers free of charge with a refundable deposit. Call ahead to confirm availability. This eliminates the biggest upfront tool cost for a transmission mount job.

Updated 2026-04-27