Engine Mount Replacement Cost
Updated 28 March 2026
How many you have, what type they are, whether you can wait, and what it costs to fix one.
Engine Mount Replacement Cost Estimator
Get a personalized estimate based on your vehicle and mount type.
Engine mounts typically fail between 80,000-100,000 miles
Estimated Total
$293
Range: $249 to $351
Parts
$80
Labor (2.5 hrs)
$213
DIY Savings
$213
Parts only: $80 (requires engine support equipment)
You save vs dealership
$174
Independent shops are significantly cheaper for engine work
Quick answer
Expect to pay $200-$600 per mount for most vehicles, parts and labor combined. Most cars have 3 or 4 mounts total. Replacing all of them at once runs $600-$2,000 depending on vehicle type and mount style. You rarely need all of them replaced at the same time.
| Repair scenario | Parts | Labor | Total |
|---|---|---|---|
| Single rubber mount (economy car) | $30-$80 | $150-$300 | $180-$380 |
| Single rubber mount (truck or SUV) | $50-$120 | $150-$350 | $200-$470 |
| Single hydraulic mount (luxury/performance) | $80-$250 | $200-$400 | $280-$650 |
| Transmission mount only | $40-$120 | $100-$250 | $140-$370 |
| All mounts replaced (3, economy car) | $100-$250 | $400-$700 | $500-$950 |
| All mounts replaced (4, luxury/SUV) | $300-$800 | $600-$1,200 | $900-$2,000 |
How Many Engine Mounts Does Your Car Have?
Most passenger cars have three mounts: two engine mounts and one transmission mount. The engine mounts sit on either side of the engine block and carry the bulk of the weight. The transmission mount sits further back and supports the gearbox.
Some vehicles have four. Larger engines, longitudinally mounted V6s and V8s, and certain performance cars add a fourth mount, sometimes called a torque strut or dog bone mount, to control fore-aft engine rocking under acceleration.
Each mount does a slightly different job. The driver-side mount typically bears the most load. The passenger-side mount often provides lateral support. The transmission mount keeps the driveshaft angle consistent. Shops diagnose which one has failed before replacing anything, so you usually only pay for one repair at a time.
Note: If one mount is badly degraded, a mechanic may recommend inspecting the others at the same time. If they are all original and the car has over 100,000 miles, replacing all three can save a return labor visit. Whether that makes financial sense depends on the car's value.
Rubber vs Hydraulic Mounts
There are two main types of engine mount. Knowing which your car uses affects both what you pay for parts and how long the replacement will last.
| Feature | Rubber mount | Hydraulic mount |
|---|---|---|
| Part cost (each) | $30-$80 | $80-$250 |
| Typical lifespan | 80,000-100,000 miles | 60,000-80,000 miles |
| Vibration dampening | Good | Excellent |
| How it fails | Cracks, collapses | Fluid leaks internally |
| Common on | Most economy and mid-range cars | Luxury, European, and performance vehicles |
| DIY difficulty | Moderate | Moderate to hard |
Rubber mounts are simpler and cheaper to replace. Hydraulic mounts use a fluid-filled chamber to absorb higher-frequency vibrations, which is why luxury sedans feel smoother at idle. When the internal seal fails, the fluid leaks into the cavity and the dampening effect is gone. You cannot repair a failed hydraulic mount; it must be replaced.
Signs of a Bad Engine Mount
Engine mounts fail gradually. The symptoms usually start mild and get noticeably worse over weeks or months.
Excessive vibration at idle
If the car shakes more than usual when sitting still in drive or neutral, the engine is transmitting vibration directly to the chassis instead of the mount absorbing it.
Clunking when shifting to drive or reverse
A worn mount lets the engine rock further than it should when torque loads change. This often produces a dull thud or clunk from the engine bay when you engage gear from park.
Engine moves visibly when revved
Have someone rev the engine while you watch from outside. A healthy mount allows only minimal movement. A failed one lets the engine rock noticeably or even contact nearby components.
Dashboard or steering wheel vibration
Vibration that travels through the firewall and into the steering column or dashboard often points to a failed mount rather than a tyre or wheel balance issue.
Can You Wait?
A failed engine mount is not the same as failed brakes or a leaking power steering rack. The car will still drive, and you are not in immediate danger if a mount collapses overnight. That said, waiting too long creates real problems.
The engine rocking excessively puts mechanical stress on the exhaust manifold gaskets, the flexible section of the exhaust pipe, the coolant hoses, and the wiring harnesses routed near the engine block. Any of those are more expensive to fix than a mount. If you have two failed mounts and delay, the stress passes to the remaining ones and they tend to fail faster.
Recommended window
Fix a failed mount within 4 weeks of first noticing symptoms. If you can hear metal-on-metal contact or see the engine touching a bracket, book it sooner. That contact point damages both the engine bay and the mount bracket, which is welded to the chassis.
If you are planning to sell the car within 3 months and symptoms are mild, get a quote and weigh the repair cost against what it does to resale value. A disclosed bad mount is less damaging than a car that visibly shakes on a test drive.
DIY Feasibility
Whether you can replace a mount yourself depends on which one failed and what tools you have.
Front engine mounts
Usually the most accessible. On many front-wheel-drive cars, you can reach both front mounts with basic hand tools and a floor jack. Moderate skill level. Saves $150-$300 in labor.
Rear and torque mounts
Access varies widely by platform. Some are straightforward. Others require removing an air intake, battery tray, or subframe brace to reach the mount bolts. Check a model-specific forum first.
Transmission mounts
Typically requires an engine support bar or a transmission jack to take the weight off the mount while you unbolt it. Without engine support, the powertrain can shift and create a dangerous situation.
Torque specs matter
Mount bolts have specific torque requirements, typically 40-80 ft-lb for the large through-bolt and 20-40 ft-lb for the bracket fasteners. Under-torquing allows movement and over-torquing can crack the new mount. A torque wrench is not optional for this job.
Common Questions
How much does it cost to replace one engine mount?
Most single-mount replacements run $200-$600. A rubber mount on a Toyota or Honda might come in at $180-$300 total. A hydraulic mount on a BMW or Audi can reach $500-$700 for a single mount once you factor in dealer-level parts pricing and the extra labor time.
Should I replace all mounts at the same time?
Not always. If the car has under 80,000 miles, replacing just the failed mount is fine. Over 100,000 miles, it can make sense to replace all three or four at once since the labor for the second and third mounts is cheaper when the engine bay is already partially disassembled. Ask your mechanic what the others look like while they are in there.
How long does engine mount replacement take?
A single accessible mount takes 1-2 hours. A transmission mount or a difficult rear mount can take 2-3 hours. Replacing all mounts on the same visit adds 3-5 hours of total labor. Most shops can complete a single-mount job in a morning.
Is there a cheaper alternative to OEM mounts?
Aftermarket rubber mounts from brands like Anchor or Westar cost $25-$60 and are a reasonable choice for high-mileage daily drivers. For hydraulic mounts, the quality gap between OEM and budget aftermarket is larger. A cheap hydraulic mount that fails in 30,000 miles instead of 70,000 miles ends up costing more. On newer vehicles still in warranty, use OEM.